Chasing Venice

When I told Jacopo, a local gondoliere, that I was firmly planted in Venice for three weeks he beamed. “Most people only come to Venice for a day or two; three at most,” he said. “It’s a bucket list city.” I always knew there was more to Venice than palaces and musicians in powder-white wigs playing Vivaldi. But even after pouring over travel books, multiple day trips to the surrounding islands, and logging over 100 miles inside the labyrinth, the city’s essence evaded me. Something was missing, and, worst of all, I knew it. Still, it took three more honest attempts before I got it right.