A well-heeled local breezes down the Lido’s main drag on a beach cruiser, completely immune to the heatstroke-induced, suffocating hordes clogging the backstreets of Venice proper.
I-I love the colorful clothes she wears
And the way the sunlight plays upon her hair
I hear the sound of a gentle word
On the wind that lifts her perfume through the air
I'm pickin' up good vibrations
She's giving me the excitations (oom bop bop)
I'm pickin' up good vibrations (good vibrations, oom bop bop)
She's giving me the excitations (excitations, oom bop bop)
I'm pickin' up good vibrations (oom bop bop)
She's giving me the excitations (excitations, oom bop bop)
I'm pickin' up good vibrations (oom bop bop)
She's giving me the excitations (excitations)
~ Good Vibrations, The Beach Boys
With umbrella-lined beaches and a carefree atmosphere, Venice’s sun-drenched barrier island makes for a perfect escape
During a prolonged stay in Venice last June, a heatwave of the Dante’s Inferno variety caused tempers among my travel companions to soar alongside the mercury. Making no attempt to disguise their contempt for my choice of vacation destination, I combed my guidebook in a last-ditch effort to salvage our holiday. Inside its worn pages, I found a pithy, breathless description of the Lido: a nearby island with “umbrella-lined beaches.”
Clinging to this morsel of hope, I herded our flock into a water taxi with promises of better times ahead.
A row of pastel pink change stations stand like dollhouses along the Lido’s soft, sandy beaches. These tiny beach huts are rented out daily to visitors for safekeeping of their valuables—surely a good idea after an Aperol spritz (or two) in the afternoon sun.
If Venice is shaped like a fish, the Lido looks more like a herring bone. Home to white sand beaches, world-class spas, 5-star hotels, and restaurants so famous they have their own street signs, this 11-kilometer-long barrier island was once the destination of choice for wealthy Venetians who retreated here to cool off at their stately summer homes. Today the Lido is home to around 20,000 residents, many of whom came to escape the soaring cost of rent and deteriorating quality of life in Venice’s historic center.
One of 124 islands that make up the archipelago of Venice, the Lido straddles the Venetian lagoon on one side and the Adriatic on the other. Little more than a strip of sand in the 7th century, the Lido, like many of Venice’s small islands, was formed from mud and sediment carried by rivers that plunged from the Alps. The power of these ancient rivers dug channels clear through the island, from which water flowed back and forth between the lagoon and the Adriatic.
Stately homes and small watercraft are defining features along one of the three channels that hack their way through the Lido.
While only three channels remain, now as then, they play a crucial role in the lunar tidal cycle. This cycle essentially “flushes” stale lagoon water out through the channels and into the Adriatic at low tide, while ferrying in fresh seawater and marine life at high tide. Except during a half-moon (when the process is inverted), two full cycles are completed every 24 hours.
It’s just south of this first channel, in the charming town of Lido, that my gang and I disembark at the Santa Maria Elisabetta (SME) station after a pleasant 15-minute boat ride across the lagoon. The island’s transportation hub and most visited town, its clean, bright streets and Art Nouveau villas are a stark contrast to the damp, crowded maze of Venice. “There are cars here!” cries one of my companions with naked enthusiasm as a convertible zooms by.
We head down Gran Viale, a breezy main street studded with boutiques, bike rental shops, and restaurants. Stylish residents breeze past us on pastel-hued beach cruisers as we mull about a gelateria, devouring scoops of amarena (black cherry), malaga (rum raisin), and, my favorite, torroncino (nougat).
Hydrated with freshly squeezed orange juice, we stroll along a tree-lined seawall that skirts the lagoon. Known as the Murazzi, it stretches almost all the way to the lazy seaside town of Alberoni, just before the island’s second channel. On clear summer days such as this, you can see across the water to San Marco Square. A flurry of photos follows as we relish the luxury of a quiet photo op to ourselves.
A few hours later, after a Thai massage at the 5-star Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria hotel spa (now the Ausonia Hungaria), we washed up under some parasols at one of the sandy beaches that dot the side of the island facing the Adriatic. My companions doze off while I nurse a sorbet-pink Venetian spritz, watching as their kids splash around the azure waters. We could be an advertisement for the island’s tourism board, I think to myself.
With the "wind down" segment of our schedule complete, we decide to splurge on a meal at La Favorita. A local restaurant recommended by the gelateria owner, I recognize the name from various street signs I'd spotted. What kind of restaurant has its own street signs? I wonder aloud. A molto bene one, as it turns out.
Glistening cherry tomatoes take their rightful place in the spotlight atop a scoop of burrata—the perfect accompaniment to a bitter, tangy olive oil and fresh, sweet pesto.
Over the dinner table, a highly animated conversation breaks out as we debate how a humble cherry tomato could contain so much flavor. This is followed by a similar discussion about our pot of fresh shellfish and continues as we savor grilled scallops so tender, they melt in the mouth.
As sunset approaches, we bid our hosts farewell, thank them for la bella tavola (a beautiful table), and embark on the ferry back to Venice. Streaks of hot-pink flares light up the night sky as our water bus scuds over the glossy lagoon. "Well, I know where we're going tomorrow!" my friend announces a cappella.
Streamers of cotton-candy pink light up the sky as the sun sets over the Venetian lagoon—as witnessed from the Lido.
Convenient and easy to get around, the photogenic Lido delivers a welcome respite from the heat and crowds that choke Venice during summer. With its carefree, relaxed atmosphere, the island is a convenient jumping-off point from which to explore the surrounding islands or a worthy summer destination all on its own.
No AI was used in writing any part of this blog. All material is the author’s sole intellectual property.
THE BEST WAY TO THE LIDO
From Venice:
The AliLaguna airport water bus will take you directly from the Marco Polo airport in Venice to the Lido Santa Maria Elisabetta station (Lido S.M.E.). You can purchase a ticket at one of the kiosks in the airport (15 euros one way) and the total trip is about an hour’s ride through the lagoon.
Other choices are to take a private water taxi, which can be costly unless you split the fare amongst a group. You may also take a regular taxi (40 euros) or the bus (7 euros) from Marco Polo airport to Piazzale Roma bus station (the last point at which you will find cars). There you may buy a ticket for the public waterbus (ACTV) and transfer to one of the lines that stop at the Lido (1, 2, 5.1, 5.2, 6, 8, 10, 11, 14, 18, N).
*Anyone with mobility issues should note that the attendants on the public waterbus will ask you to stow your luggage on the lower level, which requires you to carry your bags down a few steps. Other than this, it is a pleasant ride, and you may sit in the covered area or stand outside to take in the lagoon views.
TELEPHONES
To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 39 (the country code for Italy), and the local number.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Panorama. +39 041 276 0486, info@hpanoramacom. Located steps from the Santa Maria Elisabetta ferry terminal and within walking distance to the beach, this cozy 4-star hotel offers rooms with views of San Marco Bay. Rooms from €130 per night for double occupancy plus city tax, up to €380 for a double superior room in high season. Open year-round.
Ausonia Hungaria. +39 041 242 0060, reservations@ausoniahungaria.com. Located within a short walking distance of the Santa Maria Elisabetta ferry terminal and a stone’s throw to the beach, this 5-star luxury hotel and spa has just undergone a multi-million dollar renovation. Rooms from €267 per night for double occupancy plus city tax, up to €740 for a superior room in high season. Open year-round.
Hotel Excelsior. +39 041 526 0201, info@hotelexcelsiorvenezia.com. Located on a beautiful strip of beach facing the Adriatic, this Venetian palazzo boasts Moorish architecture, private beachside cabanas, and multiple dining options that include a pop-up seafood bistro from two-time Michelin Star chef Lionello Cera. A favorite of Hollywood celebrities. Open year-round. Book ahead, especially during Carnival and high season.
*All hotel and room rates are subject to fluctuations in price depending on season and availability.
WHERE TO EAT
La Favorita. +39 041 5261626. Wildly popular with locals and tourists alike, this friendly family trattoria serves up a dazzling menu of traditional Venetian fare with a focus on seafood. Featured in the 2019 Michelin guide. Dinner for two from €70, not including wine.
Tropicana Terrace. +39 041 5260201. Simplicity is the name of the game at this summertime pop-up restaurant. With a menu designed by a two-time Michelin Star chef, expect to see simple dishes with an emphasis on high-quality, local ingredients. Dinner for two from €140 plus a € 10,00 cover charge per person, not including wine.
Restaurant Villa Mabapa. +39 041 5260590. An atmospheric hotel restaurant with a lovely garden overlooking the lagoon, the menu features traditional Venetian family recipes and an orgy of wines. A favorite with locals and those looking for low-key dining. Dinner for two from €80, not including wine.
TO LEARN MORE
Tourist Information Office: +39 041 5298711, info@turismovenezia.it
Venice International Film Festival – Official Site.
www.labiennale.org/en/cinema/2019
ACTV Waterborne Transport Timetable.
http://actv.avmspa.it/en/content/orari-servizio-di-navigazione-0
Depending on how long you plan to stay in the Lido, purchasing a one-week unlimited water taxi pass can be a great option. 60 euro for a week-long pass, it can reduce the amount of money you spend on water taxis or water buses. At 7.50 euro each way, it’s easy for transportation to and from the lido to cut into your precious spending money, so this is a good option.
USEFUL RESOURCES
Emergency: 112
Police (Piazzale Roma Station): +39 041 5235333
Fire Station: +39 041 5200222-3
Water-ambulance: +39 041 2385648
Marco Polo Airport: +39 041 2606111
Italian Railways: +39 199892021
In a few words:
A picturesque sandbar that stretches out over 11 kilometres, Venice’s barrier island has (almost) all of its big sister’s charms, but without the warts or the hefty price tag. Car and bicycle-friendly, this easy-to-get-around island is as welcome a change from Venice’s deluge of visitors as a cool sea breeze on a hot day